Cartagena was the perfect way to end my trip to Colombia. I had originally traveled for a wedding, celebrating with friends and family in the beautiful countryside, but after the festivities, I craved some relaxation. I couldn’t think of a better place to unwind than Cartagena’s Old City- a stunning, historic gem by the Caribbean Sea. The cobblestone streets echo centuries of history, the colorful colonial facades whisper stories of the past, and the air carries the tantalizing aroma of fresh arepas and Colombian coffee. My self-guided walking tour of this magical place was nothing short of enchanting, a journey through time where every turn revealed something breathtakingly beautiful.
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Start Your Adventure at the Clock Tower (Torre del Reloj)
My adventure began at the iconic Clock Tower, the grand entrance to the Old City. This yellow-hued structure stands as a sentinel, welcoming visitors into the heart of Cartagena’s historic district. As I passed under its arches, I could almost hear the echoes of merchants and travelers from centuries past. This was once the main gateway to the walled city, a bustling point of entry that set the stage for the wonders ahead.
Plaza de los Coches: A Step into the Past
Just beyond the Clock Tower lies Plaza de los Coches, a lively square lined with arched porticoes housing sweet vendors selling ‘cocadas,’ traditional coconut treats. I indulged in one of these sugary delights while admiring the bronze statue of Pedro de Heredia, Cartagena’s founder, standing proudly in the center. The square was once a marketplace, and its energy still buzzes with the chatter of tourists and locals alike.
Strolling Through Plaza de la Aduana
A short walk led me to Plaza de la Aduana, the largest and one of the oldest squares in the city. Surrounded by grand colonial buildings, this plaza was historically used for administrative purposes. I took a moment to appreciate the striking architecture before continuing toward the next stop- Plaza Santo Domingo.
The Lively Plaza Santo Domingo
Plaza Santo Domingo was one of my favorite stops on this tour. Dominated by the Church of Santo Domingo, the oldest in the city, this lively square is home to one of Cartagena’s most famous sculptures: ‘Gertrudis’ by Fernando Botero. Legend has it that rubbing the statue’s generous curves brings good luck. Of course, I didn’t pass up the chance to test this superstition!
Cafés and restaurants line the square, their tables spilling onto the cobblestones, inviting visitors to sit and soak in the atmosphere. I couldn’t resist stopping for a refreshing limonada de coco, a coconut limeade that’s a staple in Cartagena. Sipping the icy drink while listening to a street musician’s guitar strumming felt like a scene from a dream.
The Hidden Charm of Las Bóvedas
Leaving the busy plaza, I made my way to Las Bóvedas, a hidden gem nestled within the city walls. Originally built as dungeons, these arched chambers now house a collection of artisan shops. I browsed through colorful woven bags, delicate filigree jewelry, and beautifully painted ceramics, all crafted by Colombian artisans. It was the perfect spot to pick up a few souvenirs.
Walking Along the Ancient City Walls
From Las Bóvedas, I climbed onto the ancient walls of Cartagena. Standing atop these fortifications, I was rewarded with panoramic views of the Caribbean Sea on one side and the terracotta rooftops of the Old City on the other. The salty breeze carried the scent of the ocean, and for a moment, I imagined what it must have been like for soldiers patrolling these walls centuries ago.
Discovering Secret Courtyards
One of the joys of wandering Cartagena’s streets is stumbling upon hidden courtyards. These secret oases, often tucked behind unassuming doors, are filled with lush greenery, trickling fountains, and bursts of bougainvillea. I found one such courtyard near the University of Cartagena, an unexpected escape from the bustling streets where I could rest in the shade of a towering tree.
Exploring the Colorful Streets of Getsemaní
No visit to Cartagena is complete without exploring the vibrant neighborhood of Getsemaní. Just outside the walled city, this bohemian district boasts incredible street art, lively bars, and a welcoming, artistic vibe. Historically, Getsemaní was home to Cartagena’s working class and played a crucial role in the city’s fight for independence. Today, it has transformed into a cultural hotspot while still maintaining its authentic local charm.
Walking down Calle de la Sierpe, I found myself immersed in a world of murals, each one telling a story of Cartagena’s past and present. The artwork ranged from political statements to vibrant depictions of daily life, making the entire street feel like an outdoor museum. At Plaza de la Trinidad, the heart of Getsemaní, I paused to watch a group of locals playing music while others danced, laughed, and enjoyed the warm evening air.
Hidden within this artistic maze are some of Cartagena’s best small cafés and bars. I stumbled upon Café del Mural, a cozy coffee shop where I learned about Colombia’s rich coffee culture while sipping on an expertly brewed espresso. The friendly barista shared local stories, reinforcing the neighborhood’s reputation as a place where visitors are welcomed like old friends.
A Relaxing Break at Centenario Park
As I wandered out of Getsemaní, I stumbled upon Centenario Park, a lush green space that felt like a hidden retreat amidst the bustling streets. To my surprise, I spotted sloths lazily hanging from the trees, an unexpected delight in the middle of Cartagena. The park was alive with the sounds of birds chirping and a local saxophonist playing smooth, melodic tunes. It was the perfect place to take a break, enjoy the shade, and soak in the city’s charm.
Ending the Tour at Café del Mar
As the sun began to set, I made my way back to the city walls, this time heading to Café del Mar. Perched atop the bastions, this spot is famous for its unbeatable sunset views over the Caribbean. With a refreshing mojito in hand, I watched as the sky transformed into a fiery palette of oranges, pinks, and purples. The gentle hum of live music filled the air, blending seamlessly with the sound of waves crashing against the shore.
Planning Your Visit?
- Best Time to Go: Cartagena is warm year-round, but December to April offers the best weather.
- What to Bring: Comfortable walking shoes, a hat, sunscreen, and a camera to capture the stunning sights.
- Safety Tip: The Old City is generally safe, but always be mindful of your belongings, especially in crowded areas.
- Local Food to Try: Don’t leave without tasting Cartagena’s famous arepas de huevo (fried egg-stuffed arepas) and ceviche from a local seafood spot.
- Tip: Wake up early to experience the Old City before the crowds and the heat, and don’t skip Getsemaní for a taste of local life.
- Consider Hiring a Guide: While a self-guided tour is wonderful, hiring a personal walking tour guide can be worth it. They provide local insights, tell you the history or fun facts of the area, share hidden gems, and even help take great photos for you along the way!
Walking through Cartagena’s Old City was like stepping into a storybook, each street and plaza revealing a new chapter of history, culture, and charm. From grand colonial squares to hidden courtyards, from bustling cafés to quiet, art-filled alleyways, every moment was a reminder of why this city is one of the most enchanting destinations in the world. Whether you’re a history lover, an art enthusiast, or simply someone who appreciates beauty, Cartagena’s Old City will steal your heart, just as it did mine.
Have you explored Cartagena’s Old City? Share your favorite spots in the comments below!
With love,
Bri & Cat
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