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The past 4 springs in Wisconsin (Zone 5), I have stood in my garden, coffee in hand, staring at the blank canvas of soil and dreaming about what will grow. I don’t just throw seeds in the ground anymore. A little trial and error (plus a little digging into research) has taught me the art of companion planting—a method that completely transformed the way I approach my garden.
This post is a behind-the-scenes peek at my companion planting garden layout—what I plant, how I plant it, and, maybe most importantly, why.
If you’re wondering when to plant in Zone 5, you’re in the right place. And if you’re looking for a strategy that lets your plants work with each other instead of competing, this post is packed with real-life experience you can use right away.
Planning for Zone 5: Timing is Everything
In Zone 5, our last frost date typically falls between May 5–15, so I always aim to have my cool-weather crops in the ground by mid-to-late April if the soil is workable. Most of my heat-loving plants (like tomatoes, peppers, and squash) don’t go outside until after Mother’s Day.
To get a jumpstart, I begin seed starting indoors in January/February/March—especially for tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, kale, and herbs like basil and sage. (Need help with seed starting? I wrote an entire blog about how I do it—check it out here! and more seed starting blogs here, here and here!).
Companion Planting Basics: Like Matchmaking for Plants
The idea behind companion planting is simple: certain plants help each other thrive, while others… not so much. Some provide shade. Others deter pests. Some pull nutrients deep from the soil; others fix nitrogen. When you put the right combos together, your garden becomes a little ecosystem that supports itself.
My Garden Layout: Companion Planting by Zones
I split my raised beds into 5 main zones plus a container area.
Here’s how I structure it:
1. Trellis Zone – Vertical Veggies and Nitrogen Fixers
Plants here: Cucumbers (slicing and pickling), Peas, Pole Beans
Trellised to Save Space: I use a strong A-frame trellis (now I build my own, but I have used this one on Amazon and it works great) to grow my cucumbers and pole beans. Peas go on a separate side to avoid nitrogen competition. Trellising keeps everything upright, improves airflow, and keeps fruit off the soil.
Pro tip: Use garden clips or soft ties to gently guide vines upward, especially when training cucumbers.
2. Root & Leaf Bed – Where Cool Crops Thrive
Plants here: Carrots, Beets, Lettuce, Kale, Onions, Chives
This is one of my favorite sections. Carrots and beets go down deep while lettuce and kale spread out above. Onions and chives are my little secret weapon, they repel aphids, carrot flies, and even rabbits.
Planting Tip: I succession plant lettuce every 2–3 weeks in spring to keep a constant harvest. I tuck it between root crops where it enjoys a little afternoon shade. I use this variety pack from Amazon.
Recipe Tip: For all the excess kale you are now going to grow, make these Easy Kale Chips
3. Nightshade & Herb Bed – A Garden Power Team
Plants here: Tomatoes, Peppers (jalapeño and bell), Eggplant, Basil, Marigolds, Chives
These are my diva plants—heat-loving, full-sun rockstars. Tomatoes and peppers love being neighbors. I always tuck basil around my tomatoes for flavor and pest protection. And marigolds? I plant them everywhere—but especially here—for their ability to ward off root nematodes and beetles.
Amazon pick: Try heirloom tomato seed packs or a compact greenhouse starter if you’re starting indoors.
4. Squash & Beans – Nitrogen + Space Savers
Plants here: Zucchini (trellised), Butternut squash (trellised), Bush beans
Zucchini is a beast. I learned the hard way that if you don’t trellis it or give it serious room, it takes over everything. Now, I use a super-sturdy DIY trellis and train it early.
Bush beans add nitrogen to the soil and help support the heavy-feeders like squash. Just don’t plant garlic or onions here—they inhibit bean growth.
5. Herb & Flower Border – Built-In Pest Control
Plants here: Chives, Sage, Mint (always in containers!) More marigolds!
These herbs not only smell amazing but offer major pest-repelling benefits. Mint is aggressive, so I keep it in a pot and plop it at the garden’s edge. Chives and sage are great around brassicas like kale and broccoli.
6. Container Garden – Potatoes and Problem Solvers
What I plant in containers: Potatoes in laundry baskets or grow bags, extra basil, mint, and parsley
Potatoes can be tricky in the ground. I grow mine in tall plastic laundry baskets and fill with layers of compost and straw. Harvesting is easy—just dump it out and dig once ready!
Extras. Garlic – A Special Spot
I give garlic its own bed or will plant it around the kale and broccoli zone in fall. Garlic repels aphids, spider mites, and even rabbits. I avoid placing it near beans or peas (those two hate each other). Plant garlic in October, mulch it heavily, and forget about it until next July when the tops start to dry.
FAQs I Get From Friends (And You Might Wonder Too)
“Can you plant lettuce near tomatoes?”
Yes! Lettuce loves the shade that tall tomato plants provide. Just be sure not to plant them too late in the season—once the tomatoes get really big, the lettuce might get smothered. I harvest lettuce early.
“Can kale grow near carrots and beans?”
Absolutely. Kale and carrots work well together—one grows up, one grows down. Beans are a great nitrogen fixer and give kale a boost, but keep garlic and onions away from this trio.
“Can marigolds be planted by broccoli?”
Yes! They’re actually a fantastic neighbor—especially in a bed prone to cabbage worms or beetles.
Favorite Tools & Supplies
If you’re ready to dive into companion planting, these tools have helped me big time—and I recommend them to anyone starting out:
Raised bed planters or garden beds
Indoor seed starting trays and heat mats and grow lights
Laundry baskets or grow bags for potatoes
A solid garden planner or companion planting book
Why I Do This (And Why You Can Too)
I garden this way because I love how it feels to walk out in the evening, barefoot in the grass, and check on what’s growing. I love showing my kids that food doesn’t come from a box—it comes from our hands and the soil. I love knowing my plants are working with each other, not against each other. It’s smarter, simpler, and better for the earth.
Companion planting isn’t magic—but it kind of feels like it once you see it working. I encourage you to give it a try. Map out your garden, choose the right companions, and don’t be afraid to experiment. You’ll learn something every year.
Want to Start Seeds Indoors? If you’re curious about how I get a head start on the season, I wrote an entire guide on seed starting indoors in Zone 5—you can read it here and see how I use heat mats, grow lights, and simple seed trays to make it easier (and fun).
Your garden is your story. And companion planting? It’s one of the smartest, most rewarding chapters you can write.
If you’ve been wondering how to improve your yields, reduce pests naturally, or just feel a little more in control of your garden beds—try companion planting. Your kale, tomatoes, and carrots will thank you.
Got questions about your own layout or want help sketching a planting plan? Leave a comment or reach out—I’d love to chat!
Happy Planting 🌱
With Love,
Bri & Cat
Related Posts You Might Like:
Companion Planting: A Busy Mom’s Guide to a Thriving Garden
9 Seed Starting Tips I Wish I Knew Sooner
The Easiest Vegetables for Beginner Gardeners
Companion Planting Flowers: How I Use Blooms to Boost My Vegetable Garden
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